Sun 21 February SL

Sat 20 February - Sri Lanka

Early start from Anuradhapura. And this will be a very busy day. Two important cultural highlights of the trip.

MIHINTALE - CRADLE OF SRI LANKA BUDDHISM

Mihintale is a mountain peak near Anuradhapura. It is believed by Sri Lankans to be the site of a meeting between the Buddhist monk Mahinda freshly flown in from India and local king Devanampiyatissa, which was to be the formal introduction of Buddhism into Sri Lanka. It is now a pilgrimage site, and the site of several ancient religious monuments.

It is said that the monk Mahinda resided at Mihintale, finding the hustle and bustle of the royal city of Anuradhapura unsuitable for monastic life. 

King Tissa created 68 rock cells at Mihintale for Mahinda and his retinue.

Kantaka Cetiya:  On a hillock to the north as you enter the complex, after a short climb one comes to this ancient stupa, confirmed by archaeologists as belonging to the 1st century B.C.. It is one of the oldest religious monuments in Sri Lanka. 

On the four sides of the stupa are frontispieces (here is a side view) which are relatively well preserved for buildings of this vintage. These and the altar are decorated with figures of dwarfs and elephants, snakes and other spiritual bestiary.

The monks would have resided in a network of caves close to the stupa. These are well worth exploring and afford cool peaceful viewpoints over the whole area. 

Notice the drip lines carefully carved into the stone to keep the rain from funnelling down into the living area. 

On another plateau around the complex, the Courtyard is situated at the end of a flight of steps. To the left of the courtyard are the remains of the refectory. 

Two stone troughs can be seen here, which would have been used to store food close to the refectory. 

On either side of the entrance to a monastic building, a few steps away, are two inscriptions engraved on two large slabs of granite known as the Mihintale stone inscriptions. The rules and regulations governing the administration of the monastery are engraved on these two slabs. One of the inscriptions dates from 956 - 976 AD and contains records of payments made to the service staff.

At the top of a long wide flight of stone steps one comes to the remains of the Ambasthala dagoba on the very spot where Mahinda and the King are said to have met and had their historic conversion conversation.

Nearby is a steep rock face - the Aradhana Gala or Convocation Rock. In the ancient books, it is written that Mahinda came to Sri Lanka by travelling through the air. He came down and landed at Sri Lanka on the top of this rock. 

On the very top of this bald rock cluster facing the main Maha Seya stupa (modern), even during very windy weather, pilgrims do not fail to pay their respects.  Iron railings help one to climb and keep safe from being swept off. The panoramic view from the top is staggering and well worth the precarious climb.

In a cave, underneath the summit there is a very atmospheric seating place conducive for meditation - with a gravity defying view of the fertile plain below.

Retracing our steps down the main flight, there is a path leading off to the left to the Naga Pokuna (Snake Pond). After a five minute walk through a dappled wood which skirts round the mountain, one arrives at the pond. There are figures of snakes (naga) with their hoods spread out etched on to the back of the rock. 

This pond is crucial to this complex as it feeds an intricate piped irrigation system, starting from this humble funnel beside the pond.

In its day, it provided drinking and washing water to the monks wherever they were, and eventually led the water down the mountain to this lion's head fountain back where I started my walk from. 

A fascinating morning of archaeology and cultural enlightenment for me. I bade goodbye to Kapila who guided me round this site. Nimal is now in charge to drive me the 50 miles or so to SIGIRIYA ROCK FORTRESS.

Unbelievable to be doing these two major tourist sites in one day but  actually they fit in quite well, allowing for a meal and a rest in the middle of the day when it is really too hot to move. Nimal (amazing guide driver)  has managed to book me into the Sigiriya Hotel which has the most amazing view of the rock fortress from the swimming pool where I cool off after lunch, to steel myself for the late afternoon climb. 

These two aerial views of the rock (not taken by me) give a good idea of why this site is SO attractive and challenging to the visitor. 

Sigiriya is the famous rock-fortress built by King Kasayapa I who gained the throne of Sri Lanka in 477 AD. It has the distinction of being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Once you start ascending the stairway, you come across many wonderful and interesting artefacts, highlighting the skills of our ancient artisans. About halfway to the summit of the rock you come across the 'Ketapath Pawura' - the mirrored wall. It gets it's name from the smooth glistening surface. It is believed that this was achieved by a glazing created with a mixture of lime, egg whites and wild honey. It is an ancient recipe that withstood the elements for centuries. The smooth surface of the wall was an irresistible invitation for visitors to etch their thoughts and feeling for posterity. Visitors who came to Sigiriya for nearly six centuries recorded their thoughts in form of verse and poetry on this wall and can be still seen today. 

A little further up the rock face you come across the enchanting maidens of Sigiriya. These beautiful frescoes are painted on plastered rock face and are similar in style to the contemporary frescoes at the Ajanta caves in India. Accessing them is rather precarious and extenuating, a 70 step circular stairwell overhanging the void debouching on this narrow viewing platform. 

Maidens are buxom and calmly radiant, almost smirking at our breathlessness having arrived at such an altitude. A most curious juxtaposition!

Sigiriya derives its name 'Lion Rock' from the huge archway shaped like a lion's head, which is the entrance to the fortress on a plateau halfway up the rock. Here you can see the lion's paws guarding the main staircase.

From this lion's paws' entrance, a steep stairway ascends and is quickly connected to yet another precarious climb on a metal staircase embedded in the side of the rock. Mercifully there is a guard rail because the drop is steep.

This is a view from the staircase down to the plateau. Notice the washing line of dark clothing. These are anti-hornet beekeeper outfits which everyone was instructed to wear as there is a huge hornet's nest half way up and people did get stung resulting in horrible swelling. Only the Buddhist monks managed to be allowed NOT to take a suit with them. 

On top of Sigiriya Rock Fortress - Buddhist monk on mobile phone - anachronism or what?

Dreamy views from the top of the rock fortress. Shangri-La!