Thurs 11 February

Highlight of today is an after work trip to Chalai market with the girls.

I want to show them Karim's, the sari and churidar shop, and we all want to explore a local market. It is a short bus ride away so easily manageable. 

The market place is really more of a long street of shops with a few vendors strategically stationed in front. 

There is one cross street which concentrates on vegetables (L) but this is not what we have come for.

Poppy and Lucy are looking for a length of elastic for the masks they are making for the children at the pre- school.  I am on the lookout for all sorts of things.

It is mostly household goods and gold jewellery boutiques.

I search in the former and eventually find what I am looking for -  a cheeni chutti - a very small wok which I intend to use to fry my pappads when I get back home. This makes me inordinately pleased. 

And then I find heaven - an ironmonger's shop with a chap who speaks English and old fashioned set of scales (see above) that we actually use to measure out my nails.  I am over the moon. 

I have so missed my trips to the DIY shop and here I make up for it. I zero in on some mosquito screening for windows and buy a length of that plus a 20 rupee hammer and some decent short nails. 

My intention is to screen off the two bathrooms from the swarms of mosquitoes that enter, attracted by the water, and then spread into the bedrooms.

I am so delighted with my find that I take a picture of the outside.... 

Nothing else can compete with this highlight today!

Mon-Weds 8-10 February

The week begins with the two Toms departing so we are all a little sad. We spend more time as a foursome of ladies and get to know each other better.

Cara is searching for another way to occupy her time as she has decided journalism is not panning out in a way that she likes and taking care of little ones who don't speak English isn't what she really wants to do. She comes into Cheru Resmi with me one day and we discuss the work I am doing. She is more interested in teaching older children and starts working at the after school Tuition Centre. She is dedicated and demanding and finds the experience quite frustrating but perseveres.

I carry on with job descriptions and time management charts, also drafting job adverts and letters to lawyers. Work at some length on an aid agency report (using the new reporting format) revealing a lot of missing data.

Sr. Mercy invites me to a staff meeting and she asks the staff to produce the goods there and then, in front of me. She says they won't do it if I am not there. Interesting!  Some of course plead for time, and the next morning they are all lining up at the door to complete their slots. It's mostly missing figures she needs and they are rifling through their log books.

On the home front, food is still an issue and evening meals have lost their appeal completely. I just don't like the fat and fluffy Keralan cooked rice, overly interfered with vegetables and overly spiced and cooked fish that tastes of nothing. Babu surprises us one night with an oven roasted chicken bought from Zam Zam Restaurant. I get to carve it and in a trice there is nothing left.

For some light relief, I propose we all watch episodes of David Attenborough's Private Life of Plants 

and we all get hooked. I had bought this DVD for Babu but he has no interest in these things. At least it is not wasted. We are also hooked on watermelon which is in season and with Cara's fruit carving skills we get through a 4 kg melon every night while watching TV. Tastes fantastic.

Wednesday evening we are invited to the Christ Nagar Secondary School annual show, speech day and prize-giving.  The main attraction is the keynote speaker - the charismatic Minister Shashi Tharoor. He arrives late but makes up for it by giving a good speech. We leave immediately afterwards. It's all a bit exhausting!  Beginning at 5 pm it is set to finish at 10.30 pm Yikes! What a marathon! Predictably, as with all speech days, it only really sustains the interest of families and children of the school.

The purpose of our visit is to familiarise ourselves with the venue. Babu is lining it up as a potential new Placement centre. It looks good - well organised and disciplined with hard working students and lots of parental support. Maybe too good! We volunteers discuss whether we think we should be working with more down and out people (disorganised and low-standard) or up and coming people who have had some advantages in life. Fascinating topic!

Sun 7 February

Sunday Mass in Thope then coffee with sisters. I am looking for Sr. Annie, but they tell me she is not doing well at all and has gone to St Bernarda's Nursing Home at Shangamukham Jct. 

The instructions to get there are far from clear and I don't feel confident walking there all by myself and possibly getting lost under the beating sun,  so Sr. Celine (R) offers to come with me. 

As we turn into the street, a passing well wisher offers us a ride in his Ambassador! Now that would never have happened if I had been on my own.

When we get to the Nursing Home run by the Holy Cross sisters, it's a busy place with lots of families visiting other patients. The doctor is doing his rounds and, as we arrive, he is with Annie.  Sr. Sally (above L) who is on "Annie" duty chats with us while we wait. 

Annie caught pneumonia a few months ago and since then, has simply not got better. She is a small wiry lady in her seventies with twinkly eyes, a cheeky sense of humour and an excellent command of English. 

We have shared many conversations about her extensive work in the Belgian Congo (now DRC) and as provincial for the whole of India and today we talk about these things again. I tell her that I have come across her name on various official documents at Cheru Resmi and she flushes with pleasure. She has obviously been quite the dynamo in her time.

Her memory is still very sharp and she reminds me that I once promised her that I would exchange 5 Euros into rupees for her. Knowing what I do about her state of health, I deal with this right away - she is delighted and chuckles, but says she hasn't got the euros on her. Never mind, we all agree that Sr. Sally can take care of that for her. 

In spite of her present look of frailty and powerlessness, Annie has obviously made her mark within the extended community. She has a constant flow of visitors; not the least of which an attractive guy called Rennie, who looks vaguely familiar. 

He comes in with a motorcycle helmet and proceeds to chat and discuss things with Annie in a relaxed comfortable way. She is loving the attention and opens up the chat to include us all.

I comment that the chap looks familiar and he admits to being the male vocalist in the church. I instantly recognise him. We talk about the music and what a good PA system the church has. He grins with delight and says that this is his handiwork and he is glad I think it is effective. The room is full of lively chat and banter and Annie is beaming and radiant. But she is getting tired and needs her meds. It's time for us to go.

Rennie goes off on his bike to find us an auto and returns to see that the two sisters and I hop in safely. I am secretly wishing he would offer me a ride on his bike instead.... But it doesn't happen! Maybe I am a bit too old for him! Sheesh!

When I reach home, I am met by Valsa, my stitching lady. We discuss the churidar she made for me which I am wearing (see turquoise number above) and she proposes a few minor adjustments. I accept and then show her lots more work. Materials for two more churidars and two sari blouses.  I am certainly in full swing here.

She smiles and says everything is possible and will be ready before next weekend. I am delighted that this loop can be closed satisfactorily before my departure.

And now - what on earth am I going to do with the rest of my day? Well  - I'll let you guess. 

Yes you're right! I am off to Uday Samudra again - this time  by myself. 

I spend an almost identical blissful afternoon of sunbathing, reading by the pool and swimming.

I leave even later than yesterday and night falls before I get home.

This is the last evening with the two Toms, so we all hang out together watching movies until nearly 2 am. Babu appears at the door and it's time for them to go to the airport. Ungodly hour for a flight (4.30 am).

We are all quite sad to see them go. We give them both lots of hugs and they blush at the attention. 

As they drive off, Lucy remarks that she doesn't know how Babu copes with all the farewells. He does this time and again all year along and must feel quite emotionally wrung out . What a thoughtful comment!

Sat 6 February

I wake feeling energised and full of ideas. My first day of freedom - no AV treatments hanging over my head. Yay!

And what do I want to do? - GO Shopping of course ! How predictable!  Need a STAPLES but will have to make do with Premier stationery shop - which turns into really quite a disappointment. I manage to get a small calculator for Babu and some glossy photo paper for me, but NO computer ink and nothing temptingly displayed. And I find out it's cash only!

Next Stop, Big Bazaar for spag dinner ingredients but they have virtually nothing of what I need. I distract myself by buying local spices in bulk - thinking of taking these home as gifts! I get chatting with one of the floor managers who is really helpful and interested in what I am buying.

Make my way to Chalai market for more material for churidars and sari blouses - Karim's is the place I have been hearing all about and am now aiming for. I walk in tentatively, and am immediately taken under the wing of the sales manager who blows me over by speaking the best English in whole of Trivandrum. He listens well to what I want and shows me everything he has, then leaves me to browse and get on with it. I feel elated and allow myself to get carried away. 

On the way home, I get the auto to stop and wait for me outside the local supermarket Spencers. The driver seems very happy to sit and wait with al y shopping bags sitting in the back seat. I rush in and find the missing spag ingredients -  the unlikely named minced buffalo meat (beef?) and tomato paste. I am in charge of supper tonight!

Arrive home triumphant and drop everything off. It can wait till later. Babu and I have an appointment with destiny!  I need to fill you in.  One of the main reasons I feel so UP today is that I am going to spend the day by the pool.  

Why, you might well ask, would I want to do that when I am surrounded by sea?  Well, the problem is that women cannot be seen in bathing suits at most public beaches in India 

- it offends propriety. 

So one has to swim in one's clothes. I did this once at Alleppey but it has limited joys! The other point is that you could never sunbathe in a bikini in India or you would have every male for 2 kms gathered around, drooling right over you and blocking out the sunlight, if something worse didn't happen ... So no joy there either.

So I am opting for the Uday Samudra hotel resort at Samudra Beach, next to Kovalam. Babu is keen to come along for the experience. Sony the sales and marketing chap smoothes our visit getting us good treatment at reduced rates. We join the buffet lunch and have a long chat, then I swim and sun myself until the sun goes down.  

The resort is particularly pleasing to the eye, tasteful architecture swathed in bougainvillea and discreetly concealing several hundred rooms.

Everywhere you look is charming, well tended, beautiful and easy on the eye. I cannot begin to describe to you what a change this is for me. I have been starved of this very visual impression. 

I cannot get enough of the pool and swim three or four times. It's not an enormous pool but is just the right temperature and doesn't have too many people in it. 

Oh yes, I almost forgot, the amazing thing is that most people are from guess where - ENGLAND! They obviously have excellent taste!

Babu stays fully clothed but relaxes reading and chatting on his mobile phone. For both of us, each in our own way, it's utter bliss! 

The day package costing Rs. 450 (±£6) includes the lunch and a cup of tea late afternoon. It's absolutely worth it! 

Soon it's time to go..... Need to be home in time to cook for the other volunteers who have been renting scooters all day at Kovalam. This is the first time I have cooked in Babu's kitchen and it takes me a little time to feel comfortable there. Babu cook has gone home for the weekend and Big  Babu is concerned. On the one hand he wants me to have some help and on the other he wants me to teach two women how to make this meal. I just focus on getting the unfamiliar ingredients cooked in the best way I can.

I keep the ladies busy chopping veg which saves me some time. I need the help actually because one of my main ingredients (tins of peeled tomatoes unavailable) I need to make from scratch. I boil 2 kgs of fresh tomatoes till their skins crack open, then peel them and add these to the meat. I use the pressure cooker and in no time at all the meal is ready.  Though I say it myself, the reception from my starving colleagues is extremely favourable and I feel flushed with success!

This has been an excellent day!

Fri 5 February

TGIF!

In more ways than one. 

I don't feel particularly bright this morning  - a bit of a late one last night.

Also the news from Sr M last night about the case has dampened my spirits.

I dutifully go in and get on with various job descriptions and monitoring schemes.

A new type of project crosses my bows in the early afternoon. 

Reformatting a 'logframe' report for one of our biggest donors.

It is not a simple matter of moving one column over to a new place. 

It actually requires a different type of information that I must glean from an older report or leave blank.

It shows up a lot of missing information. Sr M will have some chasing to do.

I attend my last Ayurvedic session at 4 pm and it is a charged  session. The girls are visibly sad and ask me whether I will be coming back next year and will I remember them?

I have not forgotten to bring my sari and after my shower they dress me up like a Barbie doll. 

Rajani has flair and ties the sari round the waist in the sexy Keralan style (see Left) . 

You can see her here tweaking her creation. Quite shy, she always finds a way to avoid looking at the camera.

Priya is shy too.... but puts on a brave face....

Ambika, or rather Ambi as she prefers, is just her usual beaming self!

She has been my devoted Malayalam teacher throughout these 21 days and I will miss her infectious smile and good humour.

I meet Dr. Veena for one final chat and she offers me a very pretty typically Keralan "settu mundu"

as a souvenir. 

She also invites me to her baby's blessing ceremony at the Hindu temple on 14 Feb. I'll do my utmost to be there.

It is quite an emotionally charged farewell but I promise them I will return before my final departure....

After all these emotions, I need to recover! 

The evening is restful and we all watch another movie... Great escapist relaxation.

Thurs 4 February

Much excitement because today is one of THE court case hearings and Sr. M and I have been building up a lot of supporting documents. We saw the lawyer a few days ago and he says he will play it calmly and see what the other side has to say. Lawyer only affair we are told.

To settle my mind, I work on a job description and timetable docs.

Then it's Birthday Party time and Babu whisks us off to the Poonthura playgroup for volunteer Lucy's 19th birthday. Everyone is in a high state of excitement. All the volunteers are there and Babu Sahib!

Surrounded by children and staff of the playgroup is Lucy is in the pink sari. Next to her is Poppy in a turquoise churidar top, Tom E in black T shirt and white lunghi, and Cara in a navy sari!

Some of the outfits are lent by the nursery and tailoring staff.  I am not in the picture as I am busy filming the whole thing on video.

We get served a hot lunch, complete with cake and ice cream! What a treat!

Back at the saltmines, I go through audited reports and prepare lists and tables.  Before I know it, it's time to leave for my penultimate Ayurvedic session! Nearly there! The girls at the clinic are already talking about missing me. It's touching. No pun intended! I need to make sure I have the things I have promised to bring them tomorrow.

Get a call when I return home. The court hearing was a damp squib! Our lawyer sent his junior and it was adjourned. To top it off he has still not filed the Arrears accounts. Grrrr! Cannot understand this lawyer. What a frustration! I am fuming!

Take it out on my ironing! I have decided to wear my "settu mundu" as we are all going out to dinner at The Mascot Hotel. 

Lucy's Birthday celebration and a sort of farewell treat from the two Toms to Babu. The 2 Ts are both leaving next Monday morning, coincidentally on the same flight!

Babu really enjoys the evening especially the speech made by Tom G. complete with song!

Not to be outdone Tom E. delivers a fine speech in honour of our birthday girl, Lucy and also thanks Babu for beiong his second father.

It's a good night out and Oh yes I forgot to say we got a ride in a rickety old Ambassador taxi - because we were dressed in our finery! That's one for the books!

Mon-Weds 1-3 February

Life has got a regular rhythm. Mornings at Sr Mercy's and afternoons at Ayurvedic Hospital. Evenings spent on the internet ironing out details for my Sri Lanka trip.

I am not feeling at all well, full of sneezes and a very runny nose but plod on anyway. It is odd having this cold with the high temperatures outside! But I hear through the grapevine of others in other countries, suffering similar symptomss, so I don't feel completely weird.

The BIG news is that I lost my camera a week ago. Last Wednesday was the last I saw it, downloaded all the pics and then never saw it  again. I have searched everywhere - room, house, office, clinic, the lot. It may have jumped out of my bag when a rickshaw went over a bump! Who knows? I have definitely given it up for lost though.

Resign myself to using my video camera. Bulky and short battery life BUT I need to see if it is feasible to capture some still shots from the footage. Also, I have started researching a camera shop in Trivandrum. Amazingly there is only one and it's a department store! Checked online for their stock... and for their equivalent of "home shopping". Just in case. But have cold feet and hope I don't have to do this! Babu has offered to lend me his, so any pictures from now on are from his camera or shots taken by others.

I have spent a LOT of time planning my Sri Lanka trip. I have pinpointed a couple of hotels I 

really would like to stay in, also a couple of hostels and guest houses. More importantly I have found and booked a guide-driver to shepherd me all over the island seeing the places I really want to explore. The itinerary is set and things are falling into place. I am pleased.