This morning, I am to make my way to Sri Gokulam Medical College, a huge medical empire North of the city to meet the Director, Dr Manoj, an influential friend of Babu's to talk about possible future ventures. My own personal interest is in Ayurvedic medicine and my aim is to explore the Ayurveda Department, consult a doctor for my own health and receive an appropriate treatment, all the while keeping my eyes and ears open - what I call "the guinea pig run".
As it happens the two other volunteers Alexis and Tom are doing medical postings and are going there as well. It's an early start. We need to have left the house by 7.25 am and catch a ride to the bus pick up point near the University. Babu, of course, supplies the taxi ride and when we arrive finds someone else waiting at the stop to befriend us and make sure we get to where we need to go.
The hospital and college are 30 km outside of Trivandrum - over an hour's bus ride away through morning traffic. SGMC have their own bus (very like a school bus) and it collects staff from TRV and every village and hamlet between there and the college. The journey is colourful and we pass many humorous scenes, signs and people, the bus picking up speed and increasing its musical hooting sounds as we leave the city sprawl behind.
It is a bit of a visual shock to arrive at the medical facility. It is a huge campus built far out in the countryside with massive six storey imposing white concrete buildings suurrounded by banan tress and rubber pantations. The staff bus makes several stops to drop people at appropriate locations. Our bus stop friend advises me to stay on till the last stop and he then escorts me to the Ayurveda Department.
I am met by Dr. Dinaraj, with whom I spoke yesterday. He takes a very brief history - after all I am not ill - and asks me what my health situation is at the present moment. He then passes me over to a lady doctor Dr Sushamma, whose grasp of English is virtually non-existent. She listens and tries to communicate but we need to speak through Dr Dinaraj. They both concur that after a short tour of the department I am to have an Ayurvedic massage. I am quite happy with that.
I am taken in charge by two massage therapists dressed in beautiful green saris. I can't help wondering how they are going to cope with the oils and the energetic movements required wearing these! But they do - with grace and vigour. Somehow without any English they get across to me what I need to do: get undressed (I then stand around looking awkward), they hand me a rough rectangle of cotton cloth with two strips almost ripped off that I am to use as ties round my middle the large section is to "hide" privates Amazon Indian style. I am amused by this process as they have already seen what I have got! Anyway I comply!
Next I am invited to climb up onto this huge panchakarma wooden "bed" and sit while they dribble and rub a red oil onto my limbs. 40 minutes later and I have had every square inch of me thoroughly oiled and massaged having adopted every position form sitting to lying on back on side A then front then side B. I am slipperier than a wet eel sliding around on this wooden slab - thank goodness there are a few handholds. I cannot say that this is a relaxing procedure.
Above my head throughout has been going on a three-way conversation between the two therapists and the doctor in Malayalam. I feel like a piece of meat and am none the wiser as to the name of the treatment or what it is for and what benefits I should look forward to experiencing! I make a note of this.
Finally it's over! And then the difficult task of removing all the oil under the shower without slipping, falling over and breaking my neck! Thank goodness there is a special soap that does indeed break up the substance quite well and within 20 minutes I am back in my clothes again. I am encouraged to have some "bedrest" in one of their VIP rooms and do just that, even falling asleep for 20 minutes. This is definitely worth it.
But not for long! Dr. Manoj has sent word that I am to meet him and so I pull myself together and make my way through this enormous hospital building to his office. He is a dynamic, young, well-travelled physician. He shares with me his vision for rejuvenation of the whole medical college in 2010, a meaningful anniversary. He knows there are problems with the Ayurveda Dept and wants to hear my frank appraisal of my experience this morning. I am not sure quite how much I should tell him so I start gently. But he wants more so I fetch up giving him the full 9 yards. He would like to appeal to foreigners and is prepared to invest what is necessary to make this happen. I feel a burden of responsibility to get across some important points.
In my view, there is a lot to do to bring up the level of English amongst his staff and to create a more inviting spa like atmosphere so that clients can feel reassured and relaxed. Ayurvedic medicine is called "country medicine" in Kerala, and I use this analogy to suggest more wood, natural handloom fabrics, and harmony in the general interior decoration. I mention the words 'Sarovaram' and 'FabIndia' and he gets the idea of what I mean.
I also talk about the accommodation and the surroundings of the hospital. Clients who come to stay for even some of the short treatments (5 days) will be "inmates" for some time and they need more creature comforts in their rooms. Another point, the hospital is in the depths of the country and yet all one can see from the window are huge building projects. I suggest some outdoor secluded garden space with a pond and maybe even a pool! Also some path blazing, creating country walks through the rubber plantations and over the hills? Patients will need something to do. He agrees with everything I say and makes notes. I cannot believe his receptivity.
After this very stimulating talk, I take my leave and make my way back to the Ayurveda Dept where they have insisted I must take my lunch. They are very hospitable and charming even if I cannot understand more than 10% of what they are saying. A patient wanders in and starts to chat with me - she is an English teacher and happy to tell me about herself and ask me about my reason for being there. She does some interpreting for me, which is very helpful indeed.
After lunch I insist on taking myself on a tour of the hospital and visiting my two volunteer friends in the Physiotherapy department. I must also meet the Executive Director of the Medical College and repeat many of the points I have explained to Dr. Manoj. Is this the man who will make all this happen? Who's to know.
Before I know it, 4 pm is here and the Gokulam day is over. It's time to get back on board the bus for the journey home. The boys share their day with me - Tom looks shattered but is smiling.
On the journey home I get a few shots of the Communist party posters which are everywhere in the city. The stylised red Hibiscus emblem is my favourite. The DYFI (Democratic Youth Federation of India - that means 'communist') Party conference starts today here in town and will run all weekend. We are to expect high levels of demonstrations and public manifestations - not only by them.
The bus happens to pass by the Communist party headquarters so I get a snap. Note the white strips of cloth strung along the side of the road - these are everywhere in the city - row upon row. Very eye catching!
The opposition also have posters around and Gandhi features prominently.
We get off at the main railway station and have a little explore in case we need to come here tomorrow! We take down some details about possible trains and move on. There are long queues in front of every ticket window - this is a good lesson in itself.
A quick cuppa and a snack in the spiral Indian Coffee House that is truly an emblem of Trivandrum and we make our way home.
Back at the ranch, a quick shower and change and we feel refreshed. There's a new face in town - Tom G. - a journalism volunteer who arrived this morning.
Friday night! We tell Babu we want to hang out at Kovalam Beach to relax and to get to know the new chap. He drives us out there - he needs a break too. This time we explore more of the back paths behind the main beach strip. We find a place with a first floor verandah and have a few beers and have a look in a few shops. I come away with a couple of bangles. It feels like a holiday!
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